Why go to Kandy
Kandy was the last capital of the Sinhalese kings, and it still feels like the cultural heart of the island. It sits in a bowl of green hills around a lake, about three hours inland from Colombo, and it is where most people start the hill country part of their trip.
The big reason to come is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. But Kandy is also a good place to slow down after the airport: cooler air, a walkable centre, good local food and easy day trips.
How many days
Two nights works for most travellers. One full day covers the temple, a walk around the lake and the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya. Stay a third night if you want a day hike in the Knuckles Mountain Range or a slower day in the tea estates around the city.
Kandy is also the usual starting point for the Kandy to Ella train, so many people plan their last night here around a morning departure.
Best time to visit
Kandy is pleasant most of the year because of the altitude. January to April is usually the driest stretch. Expect afternoon showers at other times, especially October to December.
In July or August the city hosts the Esala Perahera, a festival of night processions with drummers, dancers and decorated elephants. It is spectacular and very busy. Hotels fill up and prices rise, so book months ahead if your dates match. The exact dates change each year with the lunar calendar. TODO: verify this year’s Perahera dates before quoting them.
Getting there
- From the airport or Colombo by car: about 3 to 4 hours depending on traffic and the expressway section you use.
TODO: verifycurrent drive times now that more of the Central Expressway is open. - By train from Colombo Fort: around 2.5 to 3 hours. Book reserved seats in advance; unreserved carriages can be very crowded.
TODO: verifycurrent timetable. - From Sigiriya or Dambulla: about 2.5 hours by road, often combined with a stop at a spice garden or the Matale temple.
Top things to do
- Temple of the Tooth. Go early in the morning or for the evening puja when the drums start. Allow at least 90 minutes. Entry fee for foreigners:
TODO: verify. - Walk around Kandy Lake. About 3.5 km, flat and shaded in places. Best at sunset.
- Royal Botanical Gardens, Peradeniya. Huge, peaceful and good for a half day. The giant Java fig tree and the orchid house are favourites.
- Kandyan dance show. A short evening show near the lake with traditional dancers and fire walking. Touristy but fun, and a good introduction.
- Bahirawakanda Buddha statue for views over the city, or the viewpoint above the lake (Arthur’s Seat) for the classic photo.
- Tea estate and factory visit on the hills outside town, if you are not going further into tea country.
- Day hike in the Knuckles range with a local guide. Cooler, quieter and wilder than the famous trails.
Where to stay
- Around the lake: walkable to the temple and restaurants. Busier and a bit noisier.
- The hills above the city: quieter, with views and cooler nights. You will need tuk tuks to get into town.
- Peradeniya side: close to the gardens and university, good for a relaxed stay.
Local food to try
Kandy is a good place for a proper rice and curry lunch: rice with five or six small curries such as dhal, jackfruit, beetroot and a fish or chicken curry. Try kottu in the evening, hoppers (bowl-shaped rice pancakes, ideally with an egg inside) and fresh king coconut water from a roadside stall.
Mistakes to avoid
- Wearing shorts or bare shoulders to the temple. You will be turned away or asked to cover up.
- Posing with your back to a Buddha statue for photos. It is considered disrespectful, and there are rules about images of the Buddha.
- Arriving during Perahera without a booking. Rooms disappear.
- Trusting “the temple is closed today” stories from strangers who then offer to take you to a gem shop. Check yourself.
- Leaving the Ella train booking too late. Reserved seats can sell out weeks ahead in high season.