Colombo

Why go to Colombo

Colombo is Sri Lanka’s commercial capital and biggest city. It is noisy, hot and growing fast, and it is not what most people come to Sri Lanka for. That is why we say Colombo is not Sri Lanka.

But it is worth a night. You get the country’s best restaurants, colonial buildings, busy markets, temples, mosques and churches side by side, and a sea-front promenade that fills with families every evening.

How many days

One night is enough for most travellers, usually at the start or end of a trip. If you have a late flight, a half day in the city works well too.

Best time to visit

December to March is the driest period on the west coast. May to September brings southwest monsoon rain, usually in heavy bursts rather than all day. Colombo is visitable all year.

Getting there

• From the airport: 30 to 45 minutes by car on the Katunayake Expressway. PickMe and Uber both operate in Colombo. TODO: verify current app availability at the airport.
• From Kandy: about 2.5 to 3 hours by train or 3 to 4 hours by car.
• From Galle: about 2.5 hours by car or train.

Top things to do

1. Galle Face Green at sunset for street food, kites and the sea breeze.
2. Gangaramaya Temple, an eclectic and busy Buddhist temple near Beira Lake.
3. Pettah markets. Chaotic streets of spices, fabric and everything else. Go in the morning.
4. Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, the striking red and white mosque in Pettah.
5. National Museum in Cinnamon Gardens for a good overview of Sri Lankan history. TODO: verify opening hours.
6. Colombo Lotus Tower for city views. TODO: verify ticket price.
7. Old Dutch Hospital in Fort, now restaurants and shops in a restored colonial building.

Where to stay

• Colombo 3 and Colombo 7: central, leafy and close to the best restaurants.
• Fort and Galle Face: big hotels, sea views and close to the main train station.
• Mount Lavinia: south of the city, with a beach and a slower pace.
• Negombo: if you only need a night near the airport, see our Negombo guide.

Local food to try

Colombo is the place to try Sri Lankan crab curry, lamprais (a Dutch Burgher rice dish baked in a banana leaf), isso vadai (prawn fritters) on Galle Face Green, and hoppers from a street stall. It also has excellent South Indian vegetarian food.

Mistakes to avoid

• Spending three days here. The rest of the island is better.
• Taking a tuk tuk without a meter or app. Use PickMe or Uber, or agree the price first.
• Getting pulled into a “special” gem or festival tour by a friendly stranger near Galle Face.
• Planning a tight connection from the city to the airport at rush hour. Leave a buffer.